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1 Lashed Pile Velveteens
Another name for " Fast Pile Velveteens," that is the pile picks interweave with three warp ends between the floats. They are weft pile fabrics.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Lashed Pile Velveteens
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2 Fast Pile Velveteens
These are the better qualities of cotton velvets in which the pile picks are bound in more securely than with some of the cheaper qualities. Usually each pile pick is bound by three warp threads instead of one.
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Fast Pile Velveteens
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3 Velveteen
Cotton fabric with a short full pile made by weft tufts, and frequently referred to as cotton velvet. A better definition of velveteen would be weft pile velvet to distinguish the fabric from warp pile velvet, more particularly since the practice has grown of making velvets with rayon weft pile on the same principle as cotton weft pile velveteens. The weaves vary, but all conform to the principle of floating the weft which is to form pile over five or more ends. The pile weft in cheaper velveteens floats over five warp ends and under one, the weave being complete on 6 ends and 6 picks as shown at A. After weaving, the pile picks are cut in the centre of the floats, e.g., along the arrows, in order to make a uniform length of pile. With this construction the weft tufts have only one intersection with the warp by which they are held, and stability in the fabric can only be obtained by mutual support through the tufts, the binding picks, and the warp ends, being present in sufficient number. Another weave for velveteen is shown at B on 6 ends and 8 picks. A method of weaving fast pile velveteen is shown in weave C, where the weft tufts make three intersections and are held by two warp threads. See diagram under Velvet, showing single and fast pile tufts.
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4 Fustian Cord
A heavy type of velvet fabric, woven from all cotton in the design A. The ground or back weave is 2 & 2 twill. The binding of the pile picks is arranged so that when the pile is cut, short tufts alternate with longer tufts, and in the finished cloth the pile thereby acquires a rounded or cord appearance. This effect is enhanced when the cloth has more pile picks per inch of a finer weft, and then becomes suitable for use as dress goods. This is known as "velvet cord," a suitable make being 40 ends per inch of 2/60's warp, and 320 picks per inch of 28's weft.
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5 Corduroy
A term that is commonly known as 2 & 2 rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of children's stockings. ———————— A strong cotton cloth used for suitings. It is cut pile fabric, and has hard-wearing qualities. The weave has a cord or rib surface with either round or flat tops, with pile formed by the weft. When woven with a twill back it is known as a " Genoa back," and when a plain back is used it is termed " tabby back " corduroy. Fabrics of this class are woven in the same way as velvets, except that the pile picks are bound by the warp so as to form straight lines of floats; thus producing a ribbed surface. After weaving, the material undergoes (before cutting) the same stiffening and liming process as velvets. Corduroys are made in many varieties, known as fine reed, eight shafts, thicksets, constitutions, cables, etc. (see Constitutionals). The illustration shows a corduroy design, wherein crosses show ground weaves and filled squares the pile picks. An illustration is given of the cloth with the pile cut. The ribs may vary from 12 to 1 per inch
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6 Thickset
THICKSET, THICKSET CORDA strong, heavily wefted corduroy cloth, with a weave repeat of 6 ends and 9 picks. The ground weave is the 3-end twill, and there are two pile picks to one of ground. The pile weft floats are short and give a very thick pile when cut. An average make is 36 ends and 350 picks per inch, 18's warp, 20's weft. The cloth is used for workmen's trouserings. -
7 Thickset Cord
THICKSET, THICKSET CORDA strong, heavily wefted corduroy cloth, with a weave repeat of 6 ends and 9 picks. The ground weave is the 3-end twill, and there are two pile picks to one of ground. The pile weft floats are short and give a very thick pile when cut. An average make is 36 ends and 350 picks per inch, 18's warp, 20's weft. The cloth is used for workmen's trouserings. -
8 Curly Cord
A variety of cotton fustian, in which the pile has a rough and curly appearance when compared with the ordinary fustian cord. The weave is two pile, one ground, all the warp is two-fold and the rough, curly or distorted appearance of the pile is due to the use of two ends in each cord, which do not intersect with the pile picks, being made of folded yarn with the folding twist in the same direction as the single twist, or " weft on weft." -
9 Grain De Ble
The French term for a fancy velvet, produced by combining two velvet weaves to produce an alternating semi-cord. Woven with a dobby and having one ground pick of 2 & 2 twill to two pile picks. The pattern is complete on 16 ends and 120 picks. -
10 ворсовой уток
Textile: pile picks, pile weft -
11 Binder Pick
A trade term for the weft yarn which acts as a binder for the pile picks in pile fabrics. -
12 Cannele Cord
A style of fancy velvet cord, woven with one ground pick of 2 X 2 twill to two pile picks, as shown under " Velvet Cords " -
13 Cordelet
A velvet cord style of weave used in the fancy jacquard velvet fabrics. The weave is one ground pick of plain weave to three pile picks. Shown under " Velvet Cords." -
14 Kinscord
A fancy cord effect produced by suppressing the seaming threads of one of the cannele stripes in the weave (see Cannele). There is one ground pick of 2 & 1 twill to two pile picks. -
15 Astrakhan
A soft, curly, strong wool, obtained from a sheep reared in Astrakhan, Persia, and other Asiatic districts. A cloth of silk and worsted, or all worsted, with a long loosely curled pile, and put on the market as an imitation of real astrakhan. Mohair yam is largely used. The worsted fabric is made in widths 56 to 70-in., 48 X 78 picks, two-fold botany warp, about 2 / 56's to 2 / 70's, and the weft four picks single botany and two picks three-fold mohair. The mohair weft yarn is curled before using, which, when cut (similar to velveteen) causes the free ends of the tufts to curl on the face of the cloth. This cut fabric is known as "Polarian". Sometimes the pile is left uncut. A good quality cloth is made 48-in. wide, 48-ends, 150 picks per inch, 2 / 30's cotton warp, one pick 24's cotton weft, and two picks 88's mohair. A knitted fabric is also on the market as an imitation astrakhan. This is the cheapest method, but does not give the same weight or wearing quality. Astrakhan fabrics are made in two ways: - (1) On the weft principle, in which by the shrinking of the ground texture the pile weft is thrown up as a loop; (2) as a warp texture, in which loops are formed by the warp yarn passing over wires. -
16 Utrecht Velvet
Cotton velvet with a weave complete on 6 ends and 6 picks and woven on 4 shafts. Two picks separate one pile wire from the next, and only half the pile ends are raised over the pile wires. The pile threads are firmly bound in the fabric, 2/24's warp, 2/20's weft, 60 to 70 ends and 60 to 70 picks with 32 wires per inch. -
17 Panne
Derived from the French word " panne " plush and is a light velvet with a flattened pile. The ground warp is good quality two-fold cotton yarn, pile warp of spun silk, and the weft two-fold cotton. The weave is arranged three picks to one wire, and two ground ends to one pile, the pile is raised over each wire and very firmly bound by the three picks. The panne velvet fabrics have been made since the Middle Ages; the best quality coming from Italy originally, but later on from France. In 1667 a French law stated that the pile warp and ground warp were to be organzine and the weft of boiled silk and the width 22 inches. -
18 Lyons Velvet
A fast pile heavy velvet with a ground weave based on the 3 & 1 warp twill, but repeated on six picks. The loops are formed by the use of wires - There are three picks between each wire which bind the pile ends very firmly, and two ground ends are used to one pile end. All the pile ends are raised over each wire. The cloth is principally woven on the continent. -
19 Velvet
Originally velvet was a fabric made with a short dense pile woven from silk warp. Now the term is applied to fabrics made partly of silk or rayon, and partly of other materials, and to fabrics made entirely of other yarns, besides being indiscriminately confused with velveteen, which is a weft pile texture. There is a constructional difference between warp and weft pile textures. In warp pile velvets the length of the pile is determined by the size of the pile wire, or in other ways, and the pile is cut in the loom. Many velvets are woven double, face-to-face, and cut apart while on the loom. In weft pile velvets the length of pile- is determined by the length of the pile weft floats, and the pile is cut in a supplementary operation after the cloth has left the loom. The distinguishing feature of velvet is a succession of rows of short cut tufts of fibres standing so close together as to present a uniform surface with a rich appearance and entrancing softness to the touch. The quality of velvets is determined by the closeness of the pile tufts and the manner in which they are bound to the ground texture. Various weaves are used according to the weight of fabrics, yarns used, and density of pile desired. The binding of the tufts usually follows one or two systems, either single tufts which are held by only one binding pick, as shown at S, or fast pile tufts which are interwoven with three weft picks as shown at W.
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20 Patent Axminster Carpets
A superior class of carpet made on the chenille principle. They are made to any width and length, with borders and cross borders, and woven in one piece. Four or five warps are used of hemp, cotton, and other fibres. The chenille weft is made with all the pile tufts projecting in one direction; about 7 picks per inch are inserted, with two ground picks of ordinary yarn between each two. The chenille is put in by hand, and then combed forward to get all the pile straight. This chenille has its tufts made from wool or silk noil on a super quality cotton base. The woven carpets are sheared to level the pile (see carpets)Dictionary of the English textile terms > Patent Axminster Carpets
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